Cage Diving South Africa – It’s something to do!

At 5 o’clock on Saturday I was already up and on my way to the small harbour town of Kleinbaai where I needed to be by half past seven.  The reason for the early start is that Kleinbaai is home to the eight officially licensed companies who operate cage diving excursions.  I’m travelling with Marine Dynamics who run both Cage Diving and Whale Watching trips in the area.

On arrival there is time for breakfast which is great as I’d not had the opportunity to get anything on the way and didn’t fancy a full morning on an empty stomach even though the Bobotie from the night before would have served as a quality last meal for a condemned man.  I’m on my own today but not to worry before I’ve even filled my glass with juice I’m recommended the hash browns by Kerri an English girl from Winchester who is very excited at the prospect of getting in the water with the sharks and she is with her husband Paul who is a little quieter and under the weather.  There is a good mix of other nationalities Americans, South Africans, Australians and Irish so plenty of bait if we need it.  Once we have had breakfast we register and then it’s upstairs for the briefing by Alison who is the local Marine Biologist who is supplementing her research by running tourist trips.  In fact the conservation of Great Whites is very import to Marine Dynamics who re-invest much of the money they make.

The briefing consists of explaining the plight of the Great White (only estimated at 5,000 in total worldwide) the importance of the area (half the Great White population are found in the waters around South Africa) dispelling the Jaws myth (a far greater number of sharks are killed by humans than humans killed by sharks) and how the trip will be run.

Then we are issued with life jackets and head down to the jetty.  The exciting news is that we will be going out on the new boat Slash Fin which is the largest vessel on in the area.  We set out and after about five minutes drop anchor push the cage into the water and start chumming.  The idea is not to feed the sharks and interfere so chum is used to attract them which is a mixture of fish oils.  So that takes care of attracting the sharks and as I am starting to feel fairly comfortable about the whole day we are issued with wet suites and I can’t help thinking we look remarkably like a bunch of seals. All that I need is for a pair of big dopey eyes to be painted on my goggles and I’ll be a dead ringer for lunch.

Suddenly the level of excitement is racked up a few notches as a large shadowy grey figure is spotted circling the boat and the crew asks for the first eight victims (divers).  It’s down the ladder and into the cage with a reminder how cold the sea water is and then you move along until you reach the end of the cage.  When everyone is in then the lid is closed and we wait for instruction.   As the shark comes close to the boat a rope is thrown out with two fish heads attached and dragged through the water past the cage.  The instruction is given to dive and everyone in the water takes a big breath and ducks down.  When we all resurface the question is asked if we had seen anything.  Now today the conditions are ok but the water is a little murky and visibility is only at about 2 metres so the answer is no. The shark makes another pass and we dive again.  This time we return to the surface with gasps of excitement and whoops of joy.  What have we seen?  Well a shark but close up swimming past you and you can fully appreciate the awesome power of these animals.  Now we are hooked and want the next fix and don’t have to wait long.  This pattern continues with ducking under the water and watching as the shark tries to capture the fish heads giving us the chance to observe each time.

I’m feeling relaxed, enjoying it and not thinking about the possible danger and we dive again.  This time the shark outwits the bait man and takes hold of the fish heads.  From my position at the end of the cage I can see the rope tighten as the shark heads round the boat.  He must have a good hold of the rope because suddenly the Great White decides it needs some more power and flourishes its tail fin striking the side of the cage and sending it clear. I surface exhilarated and realise I’ve suddenly got very close to a girl from Cork and all eight of us have subconsciously moved down the cage.

The lid is opened and we climb out and are replaced by eight new divers.  I’m disappointed as I only think we’ve been in there 10 or 15 minutes but it turns out to be more like 45.  I take up a position on the deck which gives me the opportunity to take it all in from another angle.  As I watch the shark strike for the bait I get chatting to Alison the Marine Biologist and ask if sharks are territorial and if one will stick with the boat until bored.  She shows me the chart she has been keeping and points out that during the time I was in the cage 5 different sharks had visited of which some she has seen before and some she hasn’t.

After everyone has been through the cage there is still a little time for some people to grab another couple of passes before we head back to shore for hot soup and the chance to watch the video which has been made of our day out.

But hang on a second what has this got to do with hotels?  Well everything, you need to find something to do between breakfast and the bar opening.  Trips can be taken from Cape Town or you may wish to stay a little closer in Hermanus .

A thoroughly fun, educational and exhilarating day.